Australian winemakers have a wonderful word to describe a powerful, full-bodied and intensely flavoured red. That word is 'grunty'. On the whole it's men who like grunty wines. Not that they don't like delicate styles on occasion, or that women don't enjoy rich reds, but, now I think about it, it's only ever male winemakers who say 'grunty', and the biggest, whopper Aussie wines do seem to be especially adored by men.
Tom Kerridge from the Hand & Flowers in Marlow has given us three recipes for men, and I'd say two of the dishes demand fairly grunty wines. Of course, one is the veal chop with black-pudding mash and red-wine gravy. To avoid having to multitask, as men will, why not just drink the same wine that's been used in the recipe? Ripe, rounded, fairly inexpensive Aussie blends or Italian reds from Piedmont have the correct flavours and weight for the rich black pudding and the gravy; don't be tempted by anything much heftier as veal meat is surprisingly subtle.
For the omelette Arnold Bennett, though, things quieten down. Eggs are not easy to partner with wine, as the texture can clash with oaky or rich styles, but this omelette is cracking with a cool, buttery white burgundy or a crisp, dry champagne.
Turn the vinous volume back up, though, for Tom's tempting take on bread-and-butter pudding, which has a rum 'n' raisin feel, overall. A small glass of Australia's liqueur muscat, thick and sticky, oozing liquid sultanas, chocolate and black treacle, is a dazzling partner. It's sweet, and complex stuff – and a bit on the grunty side, too.
TRY THESE...
Campbells Rutherglen Muscat, Victoria, Australia (Oddbins, £11.99 for 37.5cl)
Unctuous, warming, dark-amber sweetie, full of brown toffee, raisins, cooked oranges… Made for rich winter desserts like the bread-and-butter pudding
Taste the Difference Mclaren Vale Shiraz-Grenache 2008, Australia (Sainsbury's, £7.99)
Exuberant, no-nonsense Aussie red, delivering big, ripe, plummy fruit, but not too heavy or overwhelming. Drink it with the veal, or any meat dish with a rich red-wine gravy
Louis Jadot 2009, Macon-Aze, France (Waitrose, £8.99)
Unoaked, but buttery, rounded Burgundian chardonnay, well balanced with a fresh finish. Good with eggs
TIPPLE TIP port of call...
'Taylor's, the port company, has just opened a luxury hotel in Portugal. The Yeatman, which looks out over Oporto, has more than 80 rooms, a decanter-shaped infinity pool and a vine-themed Caudalie spa. Port lovers (indeed, all wine connoisseurs) will swoon over the cellar'
from telegraph
